The Process of Diamond Jewellery Manufacturing

The process of creating a unique piece involves an initial design stage. Here, designers frame an idea, which is then actualised. The concept is drawn on paper and digitally interpreted via Computer Aided Design (CAD) technology. Once the CAD file is prepared, it is fed into a 3D Rapid Prototype system. Using Direct Light Projection Technology, a fully operational resin model is crafted through the 3D Rapid Prototyping System (RPT).

The digital draft from Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) is accurately converted into a resilient silver master model via casting. This model acts as a crucial reference for generating rubber moulds for future reproductions. Various materials, such as natural rubber, silicone, and metal, undergo “vulcanizing” to shape these moulds. Using a commercial wax injector, wax models are made from the rubber mould and affixed to a wax tree for casting.

A sophisticated process requiring adept crafters, casting commences with placing the wax tree in a steel flask. The flask is filled with a chemical powder concoction, which solidifies within an hour. The flask is then heated in an electric furnace, melting the wax and creating a tree-like hollow. Molten metal then fills this void. It is then cooled and the solidified concoction is removed to uncover the jewellery in its original shape.

The post-casting process kicks off with excising the raw cast from the tree, which leaves behind a minor protrusion. It is removed with a grinding unit and polished to achieve a silky touch. Undesirable metal is eliminated through filing. Component-sharing designs are fused using soldering or laser techniques. Various methodologies, such as prong, channel, and bezel, are used to affix gemstones to the piece.

The last stage includes a three-step polishing process, vital for the piece’s aesthetic appeal and value. For diamond-embedded jewellery, pre-polishing is performed before setting the diamonds for uniform lustre. The piece is coated with rhodium, a reflective white metal, for enhanced scratch resistance, anti-tarnish properties, and pleasing colour patterns. Lastly, a quality control (QC) check examines the piece to ensure it meets the established quality standards or the client’s specific requirements.